The Kallitype Process

The Kallitype process is a developing out process, with a developing, clearing and fixing stage after the printing. The Kallitype binder is the ferric oxalate which is combined with the silver solution before brushing onto the paper before printing. That followed by developing, then clearing, before toning and final fixing and hypo clear rinse before washing. The reason I haven't put up a developing element is that there are several different developing agents available, each, combined with other chemical agents alters the color of the final print, from a cool purple toned image to red or sepia, with a 'black' print possible as well.

If you are familiar with the platinum/palladium process you will notice the similarity between the Kallitype and the Platinotype processes. Both use ferric oxalate with the metal salt, both use developing/clearing using pretty much the same chemical elements. The Kallitype can use EDTA instead of citric acid as the clearing agent, as it is much more successful in eliminating the ferric iron in the paper. The primary differences between these two processes is the need for fixing & toning for the Kallitype, whereas the Platinotype needs no toning or fixing. There is a hypo of sorts though.

Coating; approximately 2 ml for an 8x10 print ~ (use a standard syringe with long flat needle)
10% silver nitrate solution ~ 1 ml ~ mixed 50-50 with
 a 20% ferric oxalate solution ~ 1 ml ~ small clear pill cups (30 ml/1 oz) size work well for this

Developer; for brownish print very similar to a Van Dyke Brown print use:
20% solution sodium citrate ~ developing time 2-3 min
The developer is poured quickly over the print surface, continue to agitate the the tray during
development.
 *Black developer ~ for rich black and white tones, much like a platinum print, the developer to use is sodium acetate; 100 g sodium acetate + 3 g tartaric acid to 1 liter/1000ml water

Rinse; (important) ~ If you do rinse, it is highly advised to have slightly acidic water (ferrous hydroxide compounds may form in the paper, making complete clearing difficult to impossible}
Use; advised use of slightly acidic water ~ 1 % vinegar/water works well
*Also note: A rinse in between developing & clearing is not absolutely necessary. Just keeps the baths fresher from spillover from developer to clearing bath.You can put the freshly developed print right into the clearing back without rinsing, but doing this contaminates the clearing bath quicker.

Clearing Bath; Standard
 3% solution citric acid ~ clearing time is fairly short at 45 secs to a minute. Clearing continues for another 2-3 minutes to more thoroughly clear out the iron (oxalate) in the paper. One can use the platinum/palladium clearing agent EDTA for this job as it works much better than citric acid.
Preferred; A preferred clearing agent is the one used on palladium printing: EDTA. This is mixed and used the same as the citric acid, but clears out the iron compounds better. Clearing time should be two to three minutes.

Toning; Gold toner ~ palladium toner:
Gold Chloride 1% ~ 5ml in 1000 ml water
Palladium toner ~ Palladium Solution #3 (15%) 5 ml, 5 g Citric Acid, in 1000ml water
*For an 8x10 print 40-50 ml of toning solution is all that is needed. Use the 'flooding' technique; In a flat bottom tray, pour in the toner. Tilt the tray so the solution is only at the edge of the tray, then place wetted print in the tray then 'drop' the tray so the solution rushes over the print, then continue agitating the tray. Toning times can vary from two or three minutes to ten minutes for the two toners above. They are both 'top down' toners, working down from the highlights to the blacks. Visual inspection generally shows you how much toning is desired for the print. Use once then toss the toner.

Wash/rinse; A wash or rinse is usually advised in between baths.

Fixing; 
5% solution sodium thiosulfate ~ two trays; 5 min each.
Formula;
water                                     750 ml
sodium thiosulfate                   50 g
sodium carbonate                    10 g
sodium sulfite                            2 g
water t/m                             1000 ml


Hypo Clear;
1% solution of sodium sulfite ~ 1 minute

Final Wash;

The full printing order; {after printing out the image}

Development
Rinse (optional)
Clearing
Rinse
Toning
Rinse
fixing
Rinse
Hypo clear
Final Wash

The paper that best fits this process as well as the other hand coating printing processes is the original rag paper designed specifically for the Platinotype; Arches Platine 100% Rag paper. At this time I continue to test the digital negative printing to arrive at the optimal density range. This testing, for now, is only available to me at sporadic times, thus greatly lengthening this basic process. Hence I have no spiffy image to show for this wonderful process, but just know, soon enough, I will. Happy printing.