The new prints arrive slower these days because I no longer make more than one print at a time now. It wasn't so long ago I worked with four prints at a time; two 8"x10"'s and two 11"x14"'s. Considering my age and how long I've been making gum prints, as well as the body of work I've produced, I'm in no need of hurrying anything.
Over the past years, I've lost interested in producing images that look like the original scene or how the subject appeared. My interest is with the light, on the setting or the subject. The Pictorial Effect; setting the lighting conditions to create a mood that connects with the viewer, eliciting an emotional connection with the image. That's the theory.
I have manipulated all of the variables that controls gum printing. There are no boundaries or rules to follow in gum printing. There are but the choices made during the printing, taking an image in a particular direction. Those variables are paper choice/sizing, gum mixture [viscosity], color choice(s) & order of application per print layer, floating time and water temperature. Each one of those variables shapes how each color application turns out, how close to the surface of the paper the image lies, the breath of the tonal range and color separation, color saturation.
As I have demonstrated in some prints, the image can have a full tonal range, and yet, be a 'soft' image, falling into the paper somewhat. "Lady in Light" being an example, or the three Tulip print images. For me, the most successful such print image was "Capt Jack". The color choices and the soft dreamy image of a red cat sleeping & dreaming. Printer's choice.
With the thinner sizing on the current paper of a scene I want to go beyond the standard print. An Oregon scenic in a Douglas Fur stand, with water and rocks, forest floor plants and a bush lit up by direct sunlight. Each leaf and other objects are all being colored with a very small brush. Makes things really stand out, and I get to embellish where I want. The variable I am manipulating is the gum mixture. For many years I mixed my gum at 50%. The commercial gum bought in the bottle is 14 Baume, or approximately 35%-37%. That just wasn't staying on the paper surface, so I mixed a batch of gum at 100%.
A gum mixture of 100%, using raw crystals currently sold, which has a slight amber hue, has the consistency as unfiltered raw honey. Not easy to work with. Helps to learn a few tricks when getting it into a mixing vessel. Mixing a water color in this thick gum makes a sticky paste and it does not take a lot of said watercolor to create a rich color that is still transparent, allowing light to get through. Once enough color is mixed such that it becomes opaque, That is what will remain on the paper, over whatever textural detail was underneath. The textural detail can't show through a solid color. The color mixes need to be translucent. If you can see through the color mixture, you're on the right track.
I now have three mixed batches of gum; 50%, 75%, and 100%. Each can be used for a specific task, with the thickest used to 'dob' on an area where some actual raised texture would enhance the image. The thinner mixtures used for color larger areas. What remains constant is the print time and float time/temperature, to control at which tonal level the printing will affect, remaining on the paper after floating. One drawback from using very thick gum coatings. Thick gum layers will tend to show cracks after enough layering has taken place. Looks like an old oil painting centuries old. Which could be pretty cool if done right.
I haven't brought up water manipulations, for removal of more gum than is coming off during floating. Turning the paper image up, holding each side of the paper and moving the paper back and forth, lifting and pushing the water back and forth speeds up gum removal. If the water temperature is warm [78-82 degrees] gum will begin reducing in the top half of the tonal range, give or take. If the water temperature is [68-70 degrees] the gum reduction is reduced to pretty much the highlights, and then, slowly. Running water from a tap can reduce fairly quickly over an area or more, depending on the angle of the water stream to the paper, the flatter, more direct on, the more reduction.
I am approximately halfway through the "Proxy Falls" image from an Douglas Fur stand in Oregon. What I have learned, over the forty years I've been making gum prints is that the learning never stops. This is simply because gum printing is the most personalized form of photographic print making. No two gum printers are alike. This, for me, is what makes gum printing so special.
For a fuller viewing of my gum print work; visit my website; https://www.gmichaelhandgisphotography.com
No comments:
Post a Comment